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Exclusively by Orchard Hill Sutlery We are very proud to introduce a brand new line as part of our continuing effort to bring you some of the best and most accurate reproductions. As most of you already know, I am very active in the hobby of Civil War reenacting and living history, what you may not know is that long before I ever became interested and involved with this hobby I was and am still very much involved in another hobby, pocketknife collecting. It was because of my twenty-five years of knowledge and passion for pocketknives that I was quick to realize that there simply are not many accurate and quality made reproductions available that represent the proper patterns, materials and construction of pocketknives made during the 19th century. It was also because of my knowledge and passion for pocketknives that I decided to set out to make an accurate and quality made reproduction, that I could offer to you. The following knives are all hand made by myself. I construct these knives one at a time, using period correct patterns and materials. Each one I build is an extension of my own self, built with my own hands from my knowledge and skills. Each knife is built with pride in workmanship and high quality materials. These knives are solid and built to last. If properly used, cared for and maintained these knives will transcend generations. Many hours of handwork goes into each knife. Yes I do use some modern equipment, but much of the construction and assembly consists of the same hand operations, methods, techniques and bench work that were used by the master cutlers over 200 years ago, using simple files, hammers, anvils and emery. I use genuine bone handles, polished German silver bolsters, German silver nails and pins, brass liners, spring steel springs, and carbon steel blades. The only 21st century liberties I take is to use cryogenically treated blades, they have been quenched at minus 305 degrees F. The process removes all of the retained austensite (large unstable particles of carbon carbide) from the steel, and transforms it molecularly to martinsite. This process actually lines up the molecules in the steel and greatly enhances edge holding properties. I chose to do this as it is in no way detectable in the appearance and thus does not detract in the visual appeal, but certainly adds in the performance. What I have tried to produce is an item of heirloom quality, that you can be proud to carry, proud to use, and proud to pass down over the years to come. Being situated in the Mohawk Valley region of New York State, I have decided to call this new line, "Mohawk Valley Knifes". My prices reflect the cost of materials along with the labor involved. If you understand pocketknives, and the time that goes into them, I think you will agree that these are a very good deal. When you buy a hand made knife, you are not just purchasing a knife, you are purchasing a piece that captures and holds the makers skill and labor, the end result of many hours of handwork, a piece that will be around for many years to come. In fact, prominent collector, author and knife historian Bernard Levine in his book, "Levine's Guide to Knives and Their Values", 5th Edition, Krause Publications, 2001, says the following; "Today hand-made folders are in demand. Most sell for between two and twenty times the prices of the best quality factory folders. The supply of fine hand-made folders is severely limited." These knives will be around much longer than most other pieces of gear. Please understand that I make these myself in my spare time, and quality cannot be rushed. I will try to complete orders within 90 days of receipt. Thank you for your interest. [CLICK HERE] for some photos of my work
Very Sincerely; Daniel Houde - Proprietor Orchard Hill Sutlery MY CURRENT OFFERINGS "ALL ARE BACKED BY FULL MONEY BACK GUARANTEE IF YOU ARE NOT COMPLETELY SATISFIED UPON RECEIPT OF YOUR NEW KNIFE" All include complete care and maintenance instructions. Item # MK-001 1 bladed Swell End Jack: This knife is a "Curved Regular" Swell End Jack pattern, and has one spear point blade, brass liners, German silver bolsters, nails, and pins. Handle can be of either natural smooth bone or dyed jigged bone. Measures approximately 3 1/4" closed, 5 3/4" open. Price: $125.00 and up. ("Carries nice in the pocket, feels good in the hand.") Item # MK-002 2 bladed Swell End Jack: This knife is also a "Curved Regular" Swell End Jack pattern, but has one spear point blade and one clip point blade, brass liners, German silver bolsters, nails, and pins. Handle can be of either natural smooth bone or dyed jigged bone. Measures approximately 3 1/4" closed, 5 3/4" open. Price: $135.00 and up. ("Nice toting knife, and two blades means you always have a sharp one.) Item # MK-003 1 bladed Dogleg Jack: Somewhat larger and more serpentine shaped than the two above knives, this knife is a "Capped Dogleg Jack" pattern, and has one clip point blade, brass liners, German silver bolsters, nails, and pins. Handle can be of either natural smooth bone or dyed jigged bone. Measures approximately 3 1/2" closed, 6 1/4" open. Price: $125.00 and up. ("Clip point blade can do a number of chores and stand up to the tasks.) Item # MK-004 2 bladed Dogleg Jack: This knife is also a "Capped Dogleg Jack" pattern, and has one clip point blade and one spear point blade, brass liners, German silver bolsters, nails, and pins. Handle can be of either natural smooth bone or dyed jigged bone. Measures approximately 3 1/2" closed, 6 1/4" open. Price: $135.00 and up. ("Hefty little beast, you definitely know this ones in your pocket.") Item # MK-005 1 bladed Easy Opener Jack: This knife is of the "Easy Opener Jack" pattern, with a semi circular cut-out in the handle near the nail pull to allow easier grasping of the blade hence the name "easy opener jack". Has one spear point blade, brass liners, German silver bolsters, nails, and pins. Handle can be of either natural smooth bone or dyed jigged bone. Measures approximately 3 1/4" closed, 5 3/4" open. Price: $135.00 and up. ("This pattern is one of my personal favorites, perfect fit in your hand and in your pocket!") Item # MK-008 1 bladed "Uncapped" Easy Opener Jack: This knife is also of the "Easy Opener Jack" pattern, with a semi circular cut-out in the handle near the nail pull to allow easier grasping of the blade hence the name "easy opener jack", however this is what is known as the "uncapped" version, meaning that there is no rear bolster, and is a little more difficult to make. Has one spear point blade, brass liners, German silver bolster, nails, and pins. Handle can be of either natural smooth bone or dyed jigged bone. Measures approximately 3 1/4" closed, 5 3/4" open. Price: $135.00 and up. Item # MK-009 1 bladed English Jack: Also called a "Bare Head English Jack", this teardrop shaped single bolstered knife is also an extremely common pattern of the 19th century. These are a large and hefty knife. Has one spear point blade, brass liners, large German silver bolster, and German silver nails, and pins. Handles are of select imported Cocobolo wood, a very common handle material of the period. Measures approximately 4" closed, 7 1/2" open. Price: $135.00 ("This pattern is what I like to refer to as the simple soldier's knife. A very inexpensive pattern that was very obtainable to the common man.) Item # MK-010 2 bladed English Jack: Also called a "Bare Head English Jack", this teardrop shaped single bolstered knife is also an extremely common pattern of the 19th century. These are a large and hefty knife. Has one spear point blade and one clip point blade, brass liners, large German silver bolster, and German silver nails, and pins. Handles are of select imported Cocobolo wood, a very common handle material of the period. Measures approximately 4" closed, 7 1/2" open. Price: $145.00 ("This pattern is what I like to refer to as the simple soldier's knife. A very inexpensive pattern that was very obtainable to the common man.) Item # MK-007 3 bladed Whittler: This knife would look right at home in an old hardware catalog. Features three blades, a large clip point, a small clip point, and a small sheep foot. Genuine bone handles, and nostalgic long "match strike" nail pull on the main blade. Rounded German silver bolsters, nails and pins. Brass liners. Measures approx. 3 1/2" closed, 6 1/4" open. A beautiful pattern from long ago. Price: $155.00 and up. Item # MK-012 1 blade Barlow: Another very popular pattern originating pre-1800's, and still very common today. A Barlow knife is essentially a regular jack that has an extra long bolster for added strength, and no cap bolster. Many pre-1840 Barlows were curved regular jacks, and this is the type that I build. Traditional handle materials were smooth bone, both natural and dyed. Buffalo horn, jigged bone, and stag were also common. My Barlow features the trademark extra long bolster, made from German silver, with German silver nails and pins, brass liners, natural handle materials and a single spear point blade. Price: $135.00 and up. Looking for a hand made quality built pocketknife to carry everyday? The following knife is not a 19th century pattern, but is rather of an early 20th century pre - WWI pattern called a "trapper". These are nice genuine bone handled traditional patterned pocketknives that you can tote and use in your daily routines. Built to last. Item # MK-006 2 bladed Trapper: This knife has one clip point blade and one spey point blade, brass liners, German silver bolsters, nails, and pins. Handles can be of either natural smooth bone or dyed jigged bone, genuine imported Cocobolo wood, buffalo horn, genuine stag, or genuine prehistoric Wooly Mammoth Ivory (subject to availability). Measures approximately 3 1/2" closed, 6 1/4" open. Price: $135.00 and up. Item # MK-011 3 bladed Stockman: A very popular pattern originating about 1890, and still very common today. Serpentine in shape, features three blades, a large clip point, a small clip point, and a small sheep foot. Rounded German silver bolsters, German silver nails and pins, brass liners. Handles can be of either natural smooth bone or dyed jigged bone, genuine imported Cocobolo wood, buffalo horn, genuine stag, or genuine prehistoric Wooly Mammoth Ivory (subject to availability). Measures approx. 4" closed, 6 1/2" open. A beautiful pattern from long ago. Price: $155.00 and up. PARTS OF A TYPICAL POCKETKNIFE
KNIFE NOMENCLATURE
Backspring - The spring in the back of a folding knife that applies pressure to the blade. Bail - A small metal loop attached to the end of some knives for the purpose of wearing on a chain. Blade - The main component of a knife, the cutting part. Bolster - The metal ends of a pocketknife that are attached to the liners. Protects the handles and provides sturdiness. Bone - A natural long wearing material that is used for handles, generally comes from cattle. Cap - another term for bolster. Clip Point Blade - A blade with a straight or concave shape along the backside of the blade. Typically the main blade of a pocketknife. Covers - The outside covering of a pocketknife, also referred to as scales or handles. Cutler - Knifemaker Dogleg Jack - Serpentine shaped folding knife pattern with one end larger than the other, (swelled end). Easy Opener Jack - Jack knife pattern featuring small half round cut-out in the handle. Equal End Jack - Pocketknife pattern where both ends are of the same size. Folding Knife or Folder - Any knife with a pivoting or folding blade, smaller of which are also called pocketknives. Frame - A folding knife's liners and bolsters, sometimes including the springs. German Silver - An alloy of copper, zinc and nickel. Also called nickel silver. A whitish metal commonly used for bolsters, scales, liners, and shields. Haft - Old term, refers to handles or scales, "Hafting" - refers to the operation of shaping of the handles or scales. Jack Knife - A class of pocketknives, commonly used to describe folding knives with blades that pivot from only one bolster. Jigged or Jigging - Small cuts made into bone or other handle material to provide a gripping surface or to imitate stag. Joint - Pivoting point of a folder. Kick - Downward projection of a pocketknife blade tang. Prevents the cutting edge from making contact with the backspring while in the closed position. Liners - A flat piece of sheet metal, commonly brass or nickel silver that defines the shape of the knife, helps make up the frame, and provides attachment points for nails, pins, and scales. The center liner on multiple bladed knives provides space between the blades. Main Blade - Master blade of a folding knife. Nail - Small metal projection protruding through the scale, liners, springs, blades, and bolsters to join the parts of a pocketknife. Nail Pull - Small notch cut into the blade near the backside for ease of opening. Also called the nail nick or nail mark. Pattern - The overall shape of a pocketknife, also can refer to the designed use. Pen Knife - Class of pocketknives, usually refers to knives with blades that pivot from both bolsters. Pin - Small metal projection used to attach the handle to a pocketknife. Pivot Pin - The axle on which folding blades pivot, also called hinge pin. Pocket Blade - The main blade of a pocketknife. Pocketknife - Folding knife that is small enough to carry in the pocket. Rivet - Same as pin or nail. Scale - Cover or handle. Shield - A decorative small metal inlay found on many pocketknife handles. Slope - The bevel of a bolster. Spring - Also called backspring, this is what holds the blade in the open or closed position. Swedge - The bevel on the back or top of a blade. Swell End Jack - A class of pocketknives where one bolster is larger than the other. Tang - The unsharpened extension of a knife blade that attaches to the pivot pin. Walk and Talk - The "walk" is the tension that is felt when opening and closing. The "talk" is the audible snap that is heard when opening and closing the blades of a pocketknife. Suggested Reading: "The Standard Knife Collectors Guide", 4th Edition, by Roy Ritchie and Ron Stewart, 2003. 5th Edition, 2004. "American Premium Guide to Knives & Razors, Identification and Value Guide", 5th Edition, by Jim Sargent 1999. 6th Edition, 2004. "Levine's Guide to Knives and Their Values", 5th Edition, by Bernard Levine, 2001. "Knife Collector's Encyclopedia", Jim Parker, 2004.
Each knife comes in period packaging!
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